Rain

I wouldn't normally dedicate an entire blog post to rain. But, seeing as how it's a pretty big deal here in Granada, it seems more than necessary.


What to do in case of rain in Granada:

1. COVER YOUR HAIR. It doesn't matter if you're a man of 70 with hardly any hair left--cover it up! It also doesn't matter what you use--if you don't have an umbrella, just stick a plastic bag on your head. Note: Even if you are at an outdoor flamenco show, whip out the umbrella/plastic bag. Covering your hair is of utmost importance; the people sitting behind you will understand. It is also acceptable to leave at the first sign of a sprinkle, even with 5 minutes left in the show.

2. Make sure you're wearing shoes with traction. The tile sidewalks of Granada aren't meant for rain, and will be quite slippery when wet. They are usually already squeaky clean, due to the high frequency of street cleaners (on the main streets), and thus you can't rely on dirt for added friction/traction.

3. Don't wear a rain jacket, unless you have one that is more fashionable than functional. Although this seems counterintuitive, a true rain jacket just screams that you are a foreigner, from a place where it actually rains more than once a year.

4. Don't fret about not having an umbrella on hand. The street vendors are psychic--they always know when it's going to rain, and they come prepared with umbrellas for sale. Either that or they look at the weather forecast. But rest assured, there will be at least ten umbrellas in any house you go into, in an umbrella stand right by the door.

5. Head on home. When it's raining, it's kind of hard to go socialize at an outdoor café. So, just head for shelter.

6. When you get home, make sure you take in any clothes that are line drying, or else, well, they'll be even more wet than when you hung them. Or, alternatively, use the plastic trick again: hang a giant sheet of plastic over your clothesline, thus allowing you to keep your clothes outside.

7. Take a moment to celebrate. It's not every day that it rains in Granada. In fact, it NEVER rains here. It's kind of like a special holiday. So make some tea, curl up in bed, and read a book as you listen to the rain fall.

Lagos, Portugal

What a weekend in Lagos, Portugal!

On Friday, upon checking into our hotel, we headed down to Praia Dona Ana, an absolutely amazing beach. This wasn't just any white sandy beach--in order to reach the beach you have to take the stairs down a cliff. The whole coastline is full of geological wonders--towering cliffs, stacks, arches, and caves/grottos galore. Immediately we began exploring along the coast, and there were even fixed ropes to help us climb up and over when necessary. We found big caves and we found tiny ones, the crashing sound of the waves producing a spooky echo within. Some caves had chimneys, big and small, allowing us to peek up at the bright blue sky.

Sun shining through an underwater opening into a cave

On Saturday we set out to sea on a sailboat, this time going further down the coast. Upon transferring to a small motor boat, we were able to explore the rocks further, riding through the arches and into caves. And let me just say, our boat driver was a pro--we would be within inches of the rocks, yet I'm pretty sure our boat never scraped once. Also, he showed us all the shapes in the rocks--a baby elephant, king kong, and Michael Jackson's face, to name a few. After some more swimming and sunbathing on the sailboat we went back to shore, and ended up on a HUGE white sandy beach where we went on a 30 minute beach run and then spent the afternoon playing beach volleyball. Oh, and did I mention the cats? I counted 12 of them, lounging in the sun on the pier. Pretty cute.

Saturday night we made a little trip to "the end of the world", as it was known in Christopher Columbus' time (it's the southwesternmost part of Europe) to watch the sunset. We sat atop towering bluffs, the waves crashing far below us, with strong winds blowing. The sky was painted with stripes of clouds, all different colors in the setting sun.

The bluffs at the end of the world

Kayaking out of a cave

Kayaking

Sunday morning we set out to explore the coast once again, yet this time in kayaks. In the kayaks we were able to squeeze through small openings into caves and coves, which turned into a brief spell of white water kayaking when the waves would crash over and around the rocks, nearly tipping the kayak on multiple accounts. The best part was, after battling to stay afloat,  the wave would then carry us out of the cave and we would shoot through the entrance back to the open water. In one cove we paused for some cliff jumping, which was awesome. Then, a bit later, we stopped to snorkel and saw tons of tiny fish. On our way back to the hotel we even paused to pick some almond off a tree, although they were pretty bitter.

We spent the afternoon exploring town before heading back home to Granada. This was definitely a weekend to remember!

Las Alpujarras

Villages of Capileira, Pampaneira, and Bubilon

"If you're at peace with yourself and the world around you, then the flies won't trouble you" --Chris Stewart, Driving Over Lemons

This is a quote that I jotted down in my journal last summer, as I read Driving Over Lemons in preparation for my trip to Spain. The book, a true story, is about a British man who leaves his life in England and buys a farm in the Alpujarras in southern Spain. Last weekend, as I hiked through the Alpujarras, I began to relive his story.

First of all, the Alpujarras are a series of small villages scattered throughout the foothills of the Sierra Nevada; I think the word poetic would be the best way to describe the simple, inspiring tranquility of towns. The buildings are all a pristine white with colorful flowers hanging from the windows, the cobblestone paths narrow and crooked. The white-washed walls are the design of the original inhabitants--the Moors--who knew that the white would reflect the sun and thus keep the houses cooler.

Navigating the trail

Connected by hiking trails, you can walk from one village to another, and up the other side of the gorge to get a panoramic view of all three villages. Our guidebook was very detailed and took us through every step; however, the "slightly overgrown" path that it warned us against was in reality a large thicket of thorn bushes--at one point we even had to get on our knees and crawl! Nevertheless, after making it through the thicket we were rewarded with panoramic views of the little white villages, scattered along the mountainside amidst terraces of orchards, fields of grass and green brush.

Hillside ruins

Continuing on we passed ruins of farms and flour mills--crumbling stone buildings, the wooden roofs long gone. Immediately I thought of Stewart's farm, as described in his book--it lay on the 'wrong side' of the gorge, which meant that in the springtime when the river swelled it would wash out the bridge that connected his farm to the towns across the gorge, and he would be stranded. The ruins we passed were also on the 'wrong side' or the gorge, and I imagine that they were abandoned for this reason. (When we reached the river we even found the foundation of a bridge that had been washed away long ago.) However, Stewart didn't abandon his farm; he still lives there to this day--in the Alpujarras, it's hard not to be "at peace with yourself and the world around you", and Stewart, recognizing this, didn't let the flies--or raging river--trouble him.

La Alhambra, La Mezquita, and La Sagrada Familia

In four days, I was lucky enough to visit the top three places to see in Spain, according to Rick Steves: La Alhambra in Granada, the Mezquita of Córdoba, and the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.

Each one was truly amazing in it's own way; and all are rich in history. The Alhambra and Mezquita were both built by Muslims, and then modified after the Reconquista: in the middle of the Alhambra, King Charles V built himself a palace. In the Mezquita (a Mosque), and Catholics built a spectacular cathedral. And after over 100 years the Sagrada Familia is still in the process of being built, and the naturalistic architecture of Gaudí gives the Cathedral a completely different feel. The spires from the roof are actually enlarged stalks of wheat/grass, and the columns inside branch out at the top like trees, because a building if really just an imitation of a tree: a large object that protects you from the elements.

Here are a few pictures:

Interior of Sagrada Familia

Art in the Alhambra

Reflecting pool in the Alhambra

Part of the Cathedral in the Mezquita of Córdoba

The Mihrab in the Mezquita of Córdoba

Zermatt, Switzerland

It is hard to find words that do the town of Zermatt justice, so I will try to keep this short. For me, Zermatt was love at first sight. Before we even got there, I loved it—after 240km of a scenic train ride through the countryside, the anticipation made it all the better! The train went along Lake Geneva, and then through the countryside, and finally began winding it’s way up a valley to the base of the Matterhorn, where Zermatt (at 1620m) was tucked away.

The town is a mountaineer’s/Northwesterner’s paradise: every person we saw was wearing hiking boots and Mountain Hardware; there are hiking trails that go straight from the town up into the Alps, and—oh yeah—if you ever need inspiration just look up and you’ll see the Matterhorn right in front of you. Needless to say, it was quite refreshing after a month’s worth of 90+ degree days in Spain.

 

The next day—our one full day in Zermatt—was absolutely amazing. Perfect weather, bright blue skies with wispy white clouds, and no wind. We happened to choose the one day all week that wasn’t rainy and windy (a pair of British climbers at our hotel told us that there had been wind gusts in the 70mph range earlier that week). Departing from Zermatt, we hiked up into the mountains, to a series of mini ‘towns’ (that consisted of a mountain chalet, restaurant, and/or ski lift) and lakes. The higher we climbed, the more mountains we could see—360 degree panoramic views of the Alps. If I could have had my way, I would have kept climbing straight up the Matterhorn!

Above the treeline, the mountainside meadows and brush were painted with fall colors. We saw a few mountain goats grazing in the meadows, and the hillside was scattered with slate-roofed log cabins. We went to four lakes, each one different from the previous. One was full of tiny fish, one was a vibrant teal color, and another one had a playground next to it! We got up to about 2,334m before heading back down to Zermatt—8 hours and 25km of hiking later.

For dinner we cooked up some brats and pasta (yum) and snuggled up in the cozy common room of the hotel, sipping tea and reading mountaineering books and National Geographics from the 60’s and 70’s. I could have stayed in that hotel forever—the ‘hostel’ that we thought we had booked was in reality the top floor of a hotel/lodge, converted to a dormitory with cozy bunks that looked straight out the window at the Matterhorn. The basement consisted of a large kitchen and common room, in which we cooked our dinner and talked to other hotel guests—including a couple from Spokane, who had climbed Mt. Rainier twice last summer. What a small world.

On our way back to Granada we spent a day in Geneva as well. We saw the famous Jet d’Eau (which spews water 140m into the air), took a water taxi across Lake Geneva, and saw the Palace of Nations (the UN headquarters). I must say, the Swiss experience was pretty awesome, and I truly hope to go back one day (especially to Zermatt). Oh, and shout-out to Swiss Air for the awesome pastries and Swiss chocolate bars on the flight!